Also, one dish with two epic fails, Steve Sando's new book, a great cocktail, and as always, book, viewing, and listening recs, and links we've loved...
Japanese Cooking A Simple Art, by Shizuo Tsuji, has instructions for gingko nut prep on page 71. Also, I have 2/3 of a bottle of Hungarian "Bende" Sour Cherry syrup if you like. Eugene Walter's "hints and pinches" says Gingko is roasted and eaten as a nut. Irene Kuo says it can be used in 2 chicken or duck stuffing recipes, a rice pudding recipe, and canned in a "big affair" soup called "The Whole Winter Melon Pond."
I absolutely love Rancho Gordo beans, thanks to you mentioning them in From Scratch (which I love as well). They are well worth the extra couple bucks compared to grocery store beans. We tend to place a big order both for the free shipping and so we always have some on hand.
Also, thank you for your open honesty regarding your kitchen fails. Good to know the masters have their moments as well! ;)
And a book rec back: if you haven't read Bilger's Fatherland, do.
Thanks for all the information! Will be making the beans (with tri tip!) in the next couple of weeks for sure. I love all of Claire Keegan's books and will be awaiting the movie. Along with Slow Horses we've been really enjoying PBS's Magpie Murders and now this season Moonflower Murders starring Lesley Manville and Tim McMullan. So cleverly done.
I grew up and spent most of my life (so far!) in Maine, so I'm no stranger to dried beans. My wife and I lived just outside San Francisco for about a dozen years. A co-worker of mine knew that I was fond of baked beans, so she gave me a pound of Rancho Gordo yellow eye beans. Nothing wrong with the beans, but upon investigation learned that they retailed for about seven bucks a pound. At that price, I thought, "Yup, only in Bay Area will people pay seven bucks for a pound of dried beans." A lot of people out there with more money than brains.
As a fellow lover of all things Rancho Gordo, I enjoyed the review of the new book and beans with great interest and envy. I am sad to report I draw the line at ginko nuts however. I consider myself an adventurous eater: crickets and ants in Oxaca; witchetty grubs in Oz; stir fried bamboo worms in China to name a few, but China was also my downfall with the dreaded ginko nut. A simple dish of broad beans and ginko nuts one evening at a Hutong in Beijing had me scraping my toungue like Tom Hank's character in "Big". I look forward to your preparation method, and I may be so bold as to risk them again someday, but they left a lasting bad impression.
Oh you have your own ginkgo trees - we're so envious!
With fresh ginkgo nuts, we personally prefer to go as simple as possible. The Japanese call them ginnan, and often just toss them in in oil and sea salt, then grill them whole on skewers.
I love Rancho Gordo beans, but I still do buy Camellia’s to make New Orleans red beans and rice. The link gives the story of Steve’s interaction with Marcella Hazen and the origin of his Marcella beans. Love to serve them with some red onions, fresh herbs and good olive oil. Maybe open a tin of tuna.
If you loved Small Things Like These, read Foster. Keegan breaks your heart into a million pieces and then puts you back together again. Her books are simply stunning. So glad you mention her.
Lots of good inspiration in this post. I love Rancho Gordo. I actually managed to get into the bean club a few years ago. I couldn’t keep up and ended up dropping out. Too many beans for one single person. I ended up sharing my bounty with my niece and nephew and giving some to a food pantry. I still buy beans from Rancho Gordo, but I try to pace myself. Great company and amazing products. I’ve been thinking about trying the bean pie in the cookbook for Thanksgiving. I may do a trial run first.
Headed back to Cleveland for my roommate from colleges 72nd birthday. I'll make my usual Westside market pilgrimage (a lifelong New Yorker's favorite) but need a lunch and dinner idea for the Westside. What say you?.
I make a Rancho Gordo salad with arugula, little white beans, aged cheddar and white wine vinegar that just steals the show. Had no idea the difference between good beans and bad until I had those, and now I won't go back.
Book recommendation for you: Burning Down George Orwell's House, by Andrew Ervin. The isle of Jura is a main character.
I love beans, this newsletter and all of the recipes. Just upgraded to yearly. Re the Gilmore Girls— I’m currently rewatching the series with my preteen daughter. It’s been wonderful.
Japanese Cooking A Simple Art, by Shizuo Tsuji, has instructions for gingko nut prep on page 71. Also, I have 2/3 of a bottle of Hungarian "Bende" Sour Cherry syrup if you like. Eugene Walter's "hints and pinches" says Gingko is roasted and eaten as a nut. Irene Kuo says it can be used in 2 chicken or duck stuffing recipes, a rice pudding recipe, and canned in a "big affair" soup called "The Whole Winter Melon Pond."
J’adore liverwurst and fortunately this outstanding resource is within driving distance of my house on the North Shore. https://karlssausage.com
Now excuse me while I go sign up for that Gilmore Women Substack…..already pre-ordered Ann’s gem. Happy Saturday!
I absolutely love Rancho Gordo beans, thanks to you mentioning them in From Scratch (which I love as well). They are well worth the extra couple bucks compared to grocery store beans. We tend to place a big order both for the free shipping and so we always have some on hand.
Also, thank you for your open honesty regarding your kitchen fails. Good to know the masters have their moments as well! ;)
And a book rec back: if you haven't read Bilger's Fatherland, do.
Is it just me but I can't download the New Yorker article - does the link work for anyone else?
The pdf doesn’t work?
No, still doesn't work for me! Oh well......
Thanks for all the information! Will be making the beans (with tri tip!) in the next couple of weeks for sure. I love all of Claire Keegan's books and will be awaiting the movie. Along with Slow Horses we've been really enjoying PBS's Magpie Murders and now this season Moonflower Murders starring Lesley Manville and Tim McMullan. So cleverly done.
I grew up and spent most of my life (so far!) in Maine, so I'm no stranger to dried beans. My wife and I lived just outside San Francisco for about a dozen years. A co-worker of mine knew that I was fond of baked beans, so she gave me a pound of Rancho Gordo yellow eye beans. Nothing wrong with the beans, but upon investigation learned that they retailed for about seven bucks a pound. At that price, I thought, "Yup, only in Bay Area will people pay seven bucks for a pound of dried beans." A lot of people out there with more money than brains.
As a fellow lover of all things Rancho Gordo, I enjoyed the review of the new book and beans with great interest and envy. I am sad to report I draw the line at ginko nuts however. I consider myself an adventurous eater: crickets and ants in Oxaca; witchetty grubs in Oz; stir fried bamboo worms in China to name a few, but China was also my downfall with the dreaded ginko nut. A simple dish of broad beans and ginko nuts one evening at a Hutong in Beijing had me scraping my toungue like Tom Hank's character in "Big". I look forward to your preparation method, and I may be so bold as to risk them again someday, but they left a lasting bad impression.
Literal lol when I read Big ref
Oh you have your own ginkgo trees - we're so envious!
With fresh ginkgo nuts, we personally prefer to go as simple as possible. The Japanese call them ginnan, and often just toss them in in oil and sea salt, then grill them whole on skewers.
You can get some ideas from this NHK video: https://www3.nhk.or.jp/nhkworld/en/shows/2054155/
We also like to add them to chawanmushi, or lightly stirfry them with tender French beans.
Thanks! And I love chawanmshi.
Hope Ann got her beans and tri-tip ☺️
I love Rancho Gordo beans, but I still do buy Camellia’s to make New Orleans red beans and rice. The link gives the story of Steve’s interaction with Marcella Hazen and the origin of his Marcella beans. Love to serve them with some red onions, fresh herbs and good olive oil. Maybe open a tin of tuna.
https://www.ranchogordo.com/products/marcella
I love this story. I use the beans for ham soup after Easter. Absolutely delicious.
If you loved Small Things Like These, read Foster. Keegan breaks your heart into a million pieces and then puts you back together again. Her books are simply stunning. So glad you mention her.
We loved Foster. Both the book and the movie.
I am so pleased you popped onto my Substack feed this am. What a delightful read. Looking forward to reading more of your work.
Beans are the musical fruit…
Lots of good inspiration in this post. I love Rancho Gordo. I actually managed to get into the bean club a few years ago. I couldn’t keep up and ended up dropping out. Too many beans for one single person. I ended up sharing my bounty with my niece and nephew and giving some to a food pantry. I still buy beans from Rancho Gordo, but I try to pace myself. Great company and amazing products. I’ve been thinking about trying the bean pie in the cookbook for Thanksgiving. I may do a trial run first.
Also looking forward to the Cillian Murphy film. That was a beautiful book.
Michael
Headed back to Cleveland for my roommate from colleges 72nd birthday. I'll make my usual Westside market pilgrimage (a lifelong New Yorker's favorite) but need a lunch and dinner idea for the Westside. What say you?.
Thanks
JR
Gosh, I don’t know! I’m there so rarely now and it’s changed so much. Any suggestions from readers will be welcome.
I make a Rancho Gordo salad with arugula, little white beans, aged cheddar and white wine vinegar that just steals the show. Had no idea the difference between good beans and bad until I had those, and now I won't go back.
Book recommendation for you: Burning Down George Orwell's House, by Andrew Ervin. The isle of Jura is a main character.
Thx for suggestion.
I have read it too - a good book.
I love beans, this newsletter and all of the recipes. Just upgraded to yearly. Re the Gilmore Girls— I’m currently rewatching the series with my preteen daughter. It’s been wonderful.