The Secret of Cacio Pepe

Inside NYC restaurants, book and movie recommendations, a contemporary classic cocktail, and links we've been loving.

My late, beloved father had many rituals he loved, one of which was making cheese fondue on Christmas Eve. I’d watch him carefully rub the fondue pot with garlic, heat the wine and kirsch in the pot on the stove, then remove it from the heat and begin gently stirring in the cheese.

I marveled at the way the hard shredded cheese didn’t simply melt in the…