Perfecting "Smothered Chicken"

An improved rendition of the Craig Claibourne 1983 recipe ...

I made the “improved” smothered chicken for Ann’s son Sam a few days back and took a quick shot of it before digging in. The Umbrian white wine is killer, btw—look at that color.

My wife, Ann Hood, found the recipe for “Smothered Chicken” on the NYTimes Cooking site this fall and made it for us. It was so good, and so interesting, I wanted to make it even better by adding three ingredients and perfecting the technique—and I wanted to share it here with you, dear paid subscribers. I was fascinated by this 40-year-old recipe for many reasons:

• You cook a whole chicken in a skillet on the stovetop, no oven needed.

• You weigh the chicken down in the pan for gorgeous, browned skin.

• I discovered the best way you weigh it down (thanks to cousin Matt).

• You make the gravy in the pan.

• You flavor that gravy by returning the chicken to it and cooking the chicken in the gravy.

• In the end I loved most the way it tasted—sooo good, a pan-roasted chicken with a rich flavorful sauce.