You know it’s a good food essay when it inspires you to make a dish.
“I’m sending you something,” Ann said to me a week ago. “You’ve got to read it. It’s a great essay. And then you’ve got to make it for me.”
I had never heard of it, omurice. But for the young writer, Bryan Washington, on a somewhat aimless travel through Japan (he was there, he told peop…
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