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Osetra caviar, on diced raw scallop, in a warm marinière sauce at Le Bernardin.

One recent, cold, wet morning, Ann sent me a link to Marcela Hazan’s bolognese in The Times. She was beside me and simply said, “I sooo want this.” And dammit, suddenly, so did I. It was like a food ear worm. And dammit again, we haven’t had a single night at home since Ann r…