Below 14th Street ... NoHo

Three great stalwarts, one of them a real surprise ...

The weirdest cocktail of the year so far: a gin martini made with pickled chili-garlic brine, cilantro, and a gooseberry at our new favorite restaurant in Manhattan.

If you’re planning to be in Noho—that odd nowhere land, a trapezoid bounded by Astor Place and Houston at top and bottom, between Bowery and Broadway—I have four outstanding restaurants to consider. Say you’re seeing a show at The Public Theater. Or seeing a movie at the Angelika. Or just want to go, as you should!

One of them we had never tried, though it has been open since 2016. Midway through our meal, Ann proclaimed, “Oh my God, this is my new favorite restaurant!”

We went a second time Thursday and are taking a friend there in two weeks. That’s how much we love it.

I know the area because I teach a food journalism course in Cooper Square in the fall, near the stately Cooper Union, the place where Abraham Lincoln delivered the address that transformed his political career and led his party to nominate him as their candidate for president.

Astor Place, is chock full of fun places, such as Mountain House and Che Li which I wrote about here.

These are all fabulous choices if you’re in the area. And worth seeking out if you’re not!

Lafayette Grand Café and Bakery …

These asparagus on a creamy lemon vinaigrette are an example of what I love about Carmellini’s food. Asparagus and vinaigrette would have been delicious as is. But he adds chopped egg, herbs, and a light, smoky paprika, all lovely, thoughtful enhancements.

Andrew Carmellini opened Lafayette in 2013, one of many—The Dutch, Locanda Verde, A Voce—operated by his NoHo Hospitality group (which also operates The Library, The Public Theater’s very good restaurant). Carmellini is a Cleveland native, no less, and NYC is lucky to have him.